Top End Break in instructions.

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Millennium Technologies:


Millennium Technologies Cylinder Instructions

1. Refer to the OEM service manual for your specific year/make/model. The service manual can provide important information required to correctly disassemble and reassemble your engine.

2. Clean parts thoroughly one at a time before use. Your cylinder should be cleaned with contact cleaner/break cleaner thoroughly before use. Use white paper towels to wipe the bore clean until no dirt can be seen on the towel. We highly recommend lubing/cleaning the bore with Marvel Mystery Oil or equivalent oil before assembly.

3. Always check each parts dimension carefully before assembly, especially if you are adding performance or non-stock parts. If a part dimension has been changed, it may require modification to other parts to work correctly.

4. Make sure the entire engine is clean before reassembly. If you have had any type of parts disintegration in the engine the only way to be certain that there are no remaining fragments in the engine is to do a full teardown and inspection of the engine. Anything less is just gambling the money that you just spent to fix the cylinder.

5. Use assembly lube on all moving parts, whether it be oil or actual assembly lube. “Dry” assembly is NEVER correct.

6. Be certain that your jetting or fuel mapping are correct, especially if you have added performance items to the engine. If in doubt, start out with a rich fuel setting rather than take a chance on damaging a new cylinder bore and piston.

7. Break in your engine correctly. It should be run easy for 30-90 minutes. The most important thing is to carefully run the engine in a way that will not cause the engine to retain high levels of heat. No extended high RPM loads in the higher gears. Short occasional blasts in the lower gears will help seat the rings, just keep them short and spaced out.

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L.A. Sleeve:

2-STROKE BREAK-IN PROCEDURES

1. Start your engine and let it idle, occasionally blipping the throttle for four to five minutes. Allow the engine to cool completely. Repeat this heat cycle process four more times.

2. Warm up the engine againand ride the bike for five to seven minutes at a very easy pace. Vary the rpm, and do not ride at one speed. Do not ride at more that 1/3 throttle or more than 1/3 rpm. Let the engine cool down completely and repeat the initial break in ride. Let the engine cool down.

3. Check the base and head nuts for proper torque. Check the coolant level and add coolant as necessary.

4. Ride the bike for five to ten minutes at a moderate pace. Vary the rpm, and do not ride at more than ¾ throttle or more than ¾ rpm. Then let the engine cool completely and repeat this secondarybreak-in twice more.

5. Replace the spark plug with a new one.Ride the bike for five to eight minutes at a moderate pace. Vary the rpm, and shift up and down gears. Once the engine is up to operating temperature,you can make a jetting pass. Start in second gear and ride at full throttle through fourth gear, fully revving outfourth gear. With the throttle wide open in fourth hold the kill button down, pull the clutch, and stop. This is called a plug chop.

6. Read the spark plug. Witha pocket flashlight and a magnifying glass, look at the porcelain part of the plug only. As you view the plug from the center electrode, look down on the length of the porcelain to its base. There should be a dark chocolate colored smoke ring. There was not sufficient time to thoroughly color thewhole plug, so the nose of the insulator may still be white. As long as there is a visible dark ring at the base, everything is OK. Remember, we want break-in jetting, so the plug should read rich/dark. Richen the jetting as necessary. If you are having a hard time reading the spark plug, follow the proceeding steps: Put the plug in a vice, and hacksaw around the plug at the washer. Break the threads off with vise grips and the porcelain will be easy to read.

7. Complete the break-in by riding at an aggressive pace for fifteen minutes. Vary the rpm and do not cruise at part throttle. Ride hard without revving the engine too high. At the end of this final break-in session do another jetting pass/plug chop as described above. Check the spark plug for the correct dark/rich condition. Wiseco piston equipped engines will require another one or two break-in cycles. If your engine is equipped with a Wiseco piston, continue with the following steps: Ride at a recreational pace not revving the engine hard. Full throttle should only be used for very short periods. Fifth and sixth gears should onlybe used to cruise. Ride one tank of gas through the engine in this manner to complete the break-in.

8. Replace the spark plug with a new one.Ride the bike aggressively for eight minutes and do a jetting pass/plug chop in fifth gear. If the porcelain color is still dark/rich, lean the main jet size one at a time until the smoke ring at the base of the porcelain is a light brown. If the porcelain base is white, do not run the engine and contact L.A. SLEEVE. If the plug color looks good, continue riding at a race pace for ten minutes. Stop and let the engine cool. Check the torque on the cylinder base and head nuts.

9. More on jetting: If you generally run your engine flat out insixth gear, then make your jet pass/plug chop insixth. Motocross jetting is checked in fifth gear, therefore it is not safe to run MX jetting in the desert wide open in sixth. Desert jetting is richer than MX jetting. When running an engine at full throttle for extended periods, be sure to chop the throttle decisively to slowdown. Just rolling out a little can seize a well-jetted engine.

Remember, the best top-end overhaul, done by the most qualified mechanic, is only as good as your break-in procedure. Good luck!