Motorrads Jeff Ward engine build series 2

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Dave, I appriciate your input and watching this thread from the beginnign.. always good input from you..

I have a oppinion on the ports on these motors, Ill post it up later, (on my phone currently, hard to type), with a link to Believe it was GORR saying somthing about them trying to Pack the trasfers (too big) in this era of bikes..

Ill also comment on the spacers...


I havnt actually calculated the ammount of volume these stuffers take up... Somthing Ill have to do..

But it turns the late crank into a 100% full circle crank.. (no recess's anymore)

kaw rider

personally you would gain more with stuffed transfer tunnel then you would with stuffer crank. put it is good to have a full circle crank for windage issues. If you talk to any good builder that has done alot of tuning they will tell you the tunnel volume is way too big for the rpm this motor runs at. Take a K5 barrel and cc the four tunnels and you will see how much volume is there and and how close they match each other.

Motorrad

One of the points I was going to bring up..

[Sandblaster]

Props to Larry on his workmanship on my new K5 Toy...

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[Sandblaster]

81cr450

At the risk of sounding dumb tongue, is that a tool to chuck the k5 head in a lathe? I've cut removable domes but I havent seen the fixturing to cut a k5 head. Or am I clear off?HuhHuh second guess would be a cc'ing stand

Motorrad

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Ran it about 60 street miles today. (tight twisties up mountain roads).. 50-50 Prem Pump (91) and avgas 100LL.. not a ping to be found.. Hooray for good head designs..

Fun Playing with the guys on their DRZ400 SM's they come out of a corner with you and start bouncing rev limiters etc... about the time they are out of steam... thats when you open the throttle up, the front end comes up, and you LEAVE... shift again with the front end in the air. and so on...

[Sandblaster]

Time to deal with a MASSIVE Flaw in the Zipty Tank shroud setup... ALOT of air goes right down the side of the shrouds, and past the tank.. (never touching the rad)...

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Template...
has scoop, top dividers, and Inside to keep from just running "across" the radiator...

(Top ones are just two scraps I set up there.... actuall will be nice an pretty, contoured. etc)

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[Sandblaster]

Decided to change my Design now that I look at pictures...

Going to come off rad tabs, and go to that first Ridge in the plastic shroud...

Less alum/stainless (havnt decided yet) to twist up in a crash. (and try to keep from flopping around at 100MPH)...

This deisgn makes it so I can rivit them to the shroud also (the ridge) and never see the rivets)..

Pics to come as soon as I make the template..

[Sandblaster]

2-Stroke Tom

Wow, that looks to be a pretty significant issue, but it looks like you have an easy fix. I think I've posted about this before, but Team Green made some thread bosses with spacers where the radiator shrouds mount to the radiator. This moves the shrouds out to catch more air. I've posted a picture of this mod on my bike, but it's interesting your tackling this issue Motorrad, because I was doing something similar.

Even though Team Green moved the shrouds out, this created a gap (about 3/8") between the radiator grills and the ridge on the radiator shrouds, so I was going to rivet a piece of plastic to extend the ridge to the grill. You can see the gap I'm referring to in the second picture of Destry Abbott's 500. Maybe this isn't too much of an issue on my bike, but for yours I would think this would make a huge difference.

kwakman

i have been toying with the idea of making new rad panels from sheet ally as mine (86) have a relatively small area for dispensing with the heated air, so gonna open them up a touch.also,under the tank but especially the front sides near the rads are prime candidates for heat reflective ally tape to keep the juice as cool as poss, as its right in the path of the heated air.K.

Motorrad

Hmm... My Team bike didnt have those pieces... Mine does have the bleeder on the rad welded up though, like the other team bikes...

I still havnt had a chance to cut out my pieces... I have a feeling its going to make a BIG temp differance.. right now I run NICE and cool untill I pick up RPM and speed.. then temps go up... I think this is part of why...

when I get back from the Desert, SUmo ride. etc... there are all kinds of BUGS etc splattered on the gas tank, where they went RIGHT PAST the rads....

[Sandblaster]

Playing with jetting alittle bit at a time.... (back and forth to work)...

dont have much time on my hands... Taking a Welding Cert in 2 weeks... to get payed more... so Im glued to a welder most of my free time.... trying to make my welds up to Par...


Initial was...

55P 172M 1.5 air... temps were in the 750F on main jet.... in the 4-5's mid/pilot...

Last run..
58P 168M 1 air.. Temps were 1000F main and WAY LEAN anywhere from CRACKED off idle through mid (Like 700+F just idling down the street crack off idle.. would have kept climbing if I didnt BLIP the throttle to feed it some Main jet fuel to drop it back down...) YIKES... Yet Idle was good and smokey..Hmm.. My head hurts from watching welding beads all day...

Next going to jump to..
62P 165M 1.5air, raise Needle 1clip NEED to get those offidle-mid temps DOWN....

[Sandblaster]

Good

So you now have different petals than the vforce 3 comes with? I just got some 3s but haven't messed with them yet. Good to see the bike runs good. Awesome work!

Motorrad

Yep.. The Petals the V3 comes with are WAY SOFT... My intake was WET WET WET from blow by....

Stock on bottom.....

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[Sandblaster]

Digatron.

(Picture is of Marks bike... as I dont seem to have a picture of mine mounted)

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