Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build

[Crofter985]

That's just the bike stuff!!! Mrs crofter and the little crofters will have jobs too.,,, happy days

[Crofter985]

Despite any strategy I might have had last week, and considdering all the things I have to do this week, I decided to try thinning the needle a bit.
I ran the bike up to reference on the twistgrip where it was running rough and then shut it down and pulled the carb out. Looking down the motor side of the carb I opened the throttle to the referenced point, and scratched the needle with a knife where it was coming out of the carb body. I took the needle out and put in the lathe and sanded it down from the mark to the point. Put it back in and then also plugged in the laptop and pulled the ignition back a bit all over the map from 5psi and up.
Oh boy!
I ran it up on the roller, minus the cooling fan still, the lean condition was then rich and it pulled cleanly right up to 8000rpm. Wow, 12psi, pushing hard into the front wheel chock and spinning on the roller. Ha ha ha ha ha, great. There is still a lean condition on part throttle but I'm sure I'll find an answer to that. Because of the lack of cooling fan still I just did a two or three full power WOT runs. It's going to be fun on the road!!!!

[Sandblaster]

Yeeeeha!
I can't wait to hear the ride report....
I'm so glad to hear it.
Are you still going to try that new carb?

[Crofter985]

Well it's still not runnin my cleanly in all throttle conditions. I got a new motor for the dyno fan this morning and ran the fan direct on the motor with only two out of the 6 blades and it kept ahead of the cooling ok. So I tried a few different things with the needle. Think I probably would need to try a jet change too.

The thing I ordered is just the jet sticking in through the body of the carb. It might still be the best option. I think the road test is still a little dyno work away.

It's still abig step forward.

[Sandblaster]

I agree, I think your on to it now.
As I said earlier, if you do this without pressurizing the carb externally by building a box around it, you will be the first person I know of that pulled it off

[Crofter985]

I took off the wastegate actuator this morning to fit the adjustable one. I put the 2nd lightest Spring that came with it and fitted the adjuster to the bike. Ran it up on the roller and still getting loads of boost. So just for a try I left the actuator off the wastegate, I saw 10psi that run, all that was different was it spooled slower. Gee! Ok, so I put the lightest Spring in and backed off the preload. Oh, and with the lighter springs and everything it has limited the maximum boost and it is running better less misfiring and stumbling. So I made a little video. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed making it. watch the exhaust at 0.50.
https://youtu.be/3LrHZfgZ4QI

[Deni$]

Hi, guys. I'm a new guy here (I'm not native english person that's why I can make a mistakes and excuse me for that). Could anyone help me to fix one issue with my klx650c? So, when I start my bike it works good on idle speed. During some time the idle speed becomes higher (about 3 000rpm). Then I can't do anything to reduce idle speed to ordered 1 300 +-100rpm exclude screwing idle speed screw. Finally, when I turn it to reduce idle speed then the bike can't work's as well without my throttle's control by hand.
WHat I have in my bike:
1. Modified exhaust (It allow my bike breath as well),
2. Modified intake (previous handler remove rubber tube near by air filter),
3. The DOHC valve clearance is good (T-mark is ok too),
4. Carbs is totally clean. Jets in the carburetor is #140 and #38. (I tried to change them, but I couldn't fix this issue),
5. COmprassion in the cylinder is ok
Also I check the CDI unit. there wasn't resistance between 1 (White) and 4 (Red) contacts (Exciter coil) 15-34 page on the manual book. Could it be a decision on my problem? If someone can check the resistance between two this contacts I'll pleasure for him.THank you. Sorry for mistakes

[Crofter985]

It looks to me like your bike is running lean. Taking off the rubber connector between the carburettor and the air box will cause this. Also the change of exhaust can cause this too.
You could try lifting your needle but you probably need a jet change. Both jets most likly, the slow and the main jet. Take them both out and see what number they are and go up 5 on the slow and 10 on the main.
Hope that is close.

There is unlikely to be anything wrong with the CDI of the bike runs. Sort the fuel first.

[Sandblaster]

+1

It looks to me like your bike is running lean. Taking off the rubber connector between the carburettor and the air box will cause this. Also the change of exhaust can cause this too.
You could try lifting your needle but you probably need a jet change. Both jets most likly, the slow and the main jet. Take them both out and see what number they are and go up 5 on the slow and 10 on the main.
Hope that is close.

There is unlikely to be anything wrong with the CDI of the bike runs. Sort the fuel first.

[Sandblaster]

By the way Crofter, your bike sounds good.
I think you are almost there..