Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
- Sandblaster
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Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding...
This should be good
I have a set of cases that I want to get ready for rebuilding.
One of the first things that I did was clean everything up and look for cracks, repairs, damage to mating surfaces, stripped threads, and measure the main bearing journals.
KX500's are notorious for wearing out the left side journals.
After all, why go through all the effort to get them ready to rebuild and then find some annoying problem...
More to come.
This should be good
I have a set of cases that I want to get ready for rebuilding.
One of the first things that I did was clean everything up and look for cracks, repairs, damage to mating surfaces, stripped threads, and measure the main bearing journals.
KX500's are notorious for wearing out the left side journals.
After all, why go through all the effort to get them ready to rebuild and then find some annoying problem...
More to come.
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
I don't want them highly polished just a nice natural finish. (Again, this was before Vapor blasting)
You can see it in this pic.
You can see it in this pic.
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
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Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
Yeah I glass blasted them.... (Before vapor blasting)
So I guess I just trashed a good set of used cases????
No, there is still hope
So I guess I just trashed a good set of used cases????
No, there is still hope
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
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Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
Ok, Soda blaster online...
And I also need a more powerful compressor.
But, this small amount of blasting shows me the potential and I like what I see
Here is a case after soda blasting the inside.
Other side
All good right?
Nope.
Since I first sand blasted the cases and was warned about particulates being embedded into the surface of the aluminum I took out my trusty Dremel tool and some wire wheels and went to town.
After about 5-10 seconds I started noticing some particulates...
I wouldn't want that junk floating around the inside of my engine
Thanks Motorrad for saving my bacon...
After about an hour I have one side done...
I sprayed some WD-40 on a rag and wiped of the surface.
It's a smooth as a baby's back side
I will in time finish the other side (After my Dremel cools off) then I will put it in my parts washer under high heat to hopefully remove any detritus I missed and I will run a small wire brush down the oil holes ect.
Might even make sure the cases are flat before reassembly
I need to get this rig in a cabinet.And I also need a more powerful compressor.
But, this small amount of blasting shows me the potential and I like what I see
Here is a case after soda blasting the inside.
Other side
All good right?
Nope.
Since I first sand blasted the cases and was warned about particulates being embedded into the surface of the aluminum I took out my trusty Dremel tool and some wire wheels and went to town.
After about 5-10 seconds I started noticing some particulates...
I wouldn't want that junk floating around the inside of my engine
Thanks Motorrad for saving my bacon...
After about an hour I have one side done...
I sprayed some WD-40 on a rag and wiped of the surface.
It's a smooth as a baby's back side
I will in time finish the other side (After my Dremel cools off) then I will put it in my parts washer under high heat to hopefully remove any detritus I missed and I will run a small wire brush down the oil holes ect.
Might even make sure the cases are flat before reassembly
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
When spending that much time looking around my engine case I started noticing a few details...
Does it hurt to leave it?
Apparently not as Kawasaki thought it was ok to leave.
But I don't like it.
Should it be removed?
What about this oil hole.
Believe it or not I have a set of new factory cases and this hole does not even go all the way through.
It's as if only part of the hole got drilled
And this hole:
Should these be clean up, enlarged, or polished?
YES!!!
Does it hurt to leave it?
Apparently not as Kawasaki thought it was ok to leave.
But I don't like it.
Should it be removed?
What about this oil hole.
Believe it or not I have a set of new factory cases and this hole does not even go all the way through.
It's as if only part of the hole got drilled
And this hole:
Should these be clean up, enlarged, or polished?
YES!!!
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
No doubt.
I was really surprised at the volume per sq. in.
No wonder people have trashed their engines
So now I need to get the other case done...
I was really surprised at the volume per sq. in.
No wonder people have trashed their engines
So now I need to get the other case done...
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
I did a bit of clean up on all the oil galley holes.
I did not enlarge any of them but merely cleaned up the approach and on some the exit holes.
Ok, now flame away
I did not enlarge any of them but merely cleaned up the approach and on some the exit holes.
Ok, now flame away
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
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- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
Now it's time for the other case
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
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- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
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Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
Like most of these steps, Motorrad tuned me up and introduced Timesaver for lapping cases.
It's a awesome product..
Looks like it's time for a product review
http://www.ws2coating.com/timesaverlapp ... ounds.aspx
The Timesaver Products Company Incorporated was founded in 1919, and while the company name has changed and relocated over the years, Timesaver Lapping Compound is still the leader in non-charging abrasive compounds. Timesaver Lapping Compounds are currently manufactured by Micro Surface Corporation in San Jose, CA. and are available for distribution worldwide. The lapping compound is still manufactured in two classes of abrasive compounds, grades for ferrous metals and grades for non-ferrous metals and can be identified by their colors of green and yellow respectively.
Unlike other lapping compounds, Timesaver Lapping Compounds do not contain emery, silicon carbide, aluminum oxide or similar permanent charging abrasives. It will not charge into any metal surface or continue to cut. The lapping compound has a cutting action that is rapid at first and gradually diminishes as the abrasive particles disintegrate into inoperative material. The finishing action is such that surface irregularities and surplus metal is gently and quickly removed without disturbing the natural metal structure.
Timesaver Lapping Compound is manufactured expressly for the purpose of fitting and smoothing the bearing or contacting surfaces of rotating, oscillating or sliding parts of a mechanism. Assembly lapping of parts with Timesaver Lapping Compound, regardless of shape, size or the part involved, will result in precision fits, proper oil clearance and a microscopically fine finish.
Timesaver Lapping Compound cannot replace all of the other lapping compounds available, but if you are hand fitting pieces, have a hot bearing, gear noise or other demanding application where complete disassembly is not desirable, Timesaver Lapping Compounds may be the answer.
Technical Data
Timesaver Lapping Compounds are formulated to first act as an abrasive, then diminish to a polish and finally to inert material. Other ingredients in the compound conglomerate the fines to prevent imbedding in the metal being lapped.
All compounds have a range of particle sizes with most of the work being done by the largest particles. The selection of the grade depends more upon the amount of metal to be removed than the finish because the abrasive breaks down to a finer and finer size and eventually to a polish material.
Applications
Split Bearings - Mix Timesaver Compound with light or medium oil to the consistency of a thin paste and apply to the bearing halves. Add a little oil to the surfaces; also apply oil to the shaft. Bolt up cap - not too tightly, just so shaft can be easily turned by hand; then proceed to lap. At intervals add sufficient oil to the surfaces to prevent them from becoming dry. Take up on bearings gradually as high spots are removed, applying fresh compound when necessary. When a full bearing surface has been obtained, tighten cap to final fit, add a few drops of oil and continue to lap for a short time without adding fresh compound. This operation produces a final finish and proper running oil clearance, which should not be changed or varied after bearing has been flushed out with diesel oil or Stoddard Solvent for final assembly. Timesaver-lapped bearings should not feel as tight as scraped or machined bearings because no allowance is necessary for the wearing-down of high spots. Lapped bearings are the same as broken-in bearings.
Sleeve Bearings - Fit bearings snugly to shaft. Apply Timesaver mixed with oil to bearing and shaft. Insert shaft and lap with a twisting motion, adding oil frequently until proper clearance is obtained. Flush out with diesel or Stoddard Solvent.
Hot Bearings - Mix a small amount of Timesaver with oil. The mixture must be very thin. Apply freely to bearings and shaft through oil holes. Rotate the shaft. Add the thin mixture until bearing is free. Then flush out with diesel or Stoddard Solvent and lubricate as in normal practice.
Gears - Mix Timesaver Compound with oil proportions of about one part Timesaver to three or four parts of oil (by volume). The use of heavy oil is advisable as this procedure prevents the mixture from being thrown from the gears and wasted. Apply mixture sparingly either by pouring or with a paint brush. When gears run quietly, flush out with diesel oil or Stoddard Solvent.
It's a awesome product..
Looks like it's time for a product review
http://www.ws2coating.com/timesaverlapp ... ounds.aspx
The Timesaver Products Company Incorporated was founded in 1919, and while the company name has changed and relocated over the years, Timesaver Lapping Compound is still the leader in non-charging abrasive compounds. Timesaver Lapping Compounds are currently manufactured by Micro Surface Corporation in San Jose, CA. and are available for distribution worldwide. The lapping compound is still manufactured in two classes of abrasive compounds, grades for ferrous metals and grades for non-ferrous metals and can be identified by their colors of green and yellow respectively.
Unlike other lapping compounds, Timesaver Lapping Compounds do not contain emery, silicon carbide, aluminum oxide or similar permanent charging abrasives. It will not charge into any metal surface or continue to cut. The lapping compound has a cutting action that is rapid at first and gradually diminishes as the abrasive particles disintegrate into inoperative material. The finishing action is such that surface irregularities and surplus metal is gently and quickly removed without disturbing the natural metal structure.
Timesaver Lapping Compound is manufactured expressly for the purpose of fitting and smoothing the bearing or contacting surfaces of rotating, oscillating or sliding parts of a mechanism. Assembly lapping of parts with Timesaver Lapping Compound, regardless of shape, size or the part involved, will result in precision fits, proper oil clearance and a microscopically fine finish.
Timesaver Lapping Compound cannot replace all of the other lapping compounds available, but if you are hand fitting pieces, have a hot bearing, gear noise or other demanding application where complete disassembly is not desirable, Timesaver Lapping Compounds may be the answer.
Technical Data
Timesaver Lapping Compounds are formulated to first act as an abrasive, then diminish to a polish and finally to inert material. Other ingredients in the compound conglomerate the fines to prevent imbedding in the metal being lapped.
All compounds have a range of particle sizes with most of the work being done by the largest particles. The selection of the grade depends more upon the amount of metal to be removed than the finish because the abrasive breaks down to a finer and finer size and eventually to a polish material.
Applications
Split Bearings - Mix Timesaver Compound with light or medium oil to the consistency of a thin paste and apply to the bearing halves. Add a little oil to the surfaces; also apply oil to the shaft. Bolt up cap - not too tightly, just so shaft can be easily turned by hand; then proceed to lap. At intervals add sufficient oil to the surfaces to prevent them from becoming dry. Take up on bearings gradually as high spots are removed, applying fresh compound when necessary. When a full bearing surface has been obtained, tighten cap to final fit, add a few drops of oil and continue to lap for a short time without adding fresh compound. This operation produces a final finish and proper running oil clearance, which should not be changed or varied after bearing has been flushed out with diesel oil or Stoddard Solvent for final assembly. Timesaver-lapped bearings should not feel as tight as scraped or machined bearings because no allowance is necessary for the wearing-down of high spots. Lapped bearings are the same as broken-in bearings.
Sleeve Bearings - Fit bearings snugly to shaft. Apply Timesaver mixed with oil to bearing and shaft. Insert shaft and lap with a twisting motion, adding oil frequently until proper clearance is obtained. Flush out with diesel or Stoddard Solvent.
Hot Bearings - Mix a small amount of Timesaver with oil. The mixture must be very thin. Apply freely to bearings and shaft through oil holes. Rotate the shaft. Add the thin mixture until bearing is free. Then flush out with diesel or Stoddard Solvent and lubricate as in normal practice.
Gears - Mix Timesaver Compound with oil proportions of about one part Timesaver to three or four parts of oil (by volume). The use of heavy oil is advisable as this procedure prevents the mixture from being thrown from the gears and wasted. Apply mixture sparingly either by pouring or with a paint brush. When gears run quietly, flush out with diesel oil or Stoddard Solvent.
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: Prepping a set of KX500 engine cases for rebuilding
I use 100 grit "very fine" if the cases are not to bad.
For bad cases I use 60 "Medium"
ATF works great as a oil but I have used 30wt, and 10-40
What you do is mix up a small bit of the yellow powder with the oil.
Mix it well.
I like to take a small block of wood and screw the bottom case to a wood table top or a small piece of plywood.
Then I liberally apply the Timesaver/oil mix to the mating surfaces of the cases.
I then put a bolt loosely into the end of one of the cases.
Then I move the top case back and forth several times.
Next, move the bolt to the other end of the cases and again move the top case back and forth several times.
I do this in the same pattern that I torque the case bolts.
Around and around we go.
Then check once in a while.. Add more Timesaver as required..
For bad cases I use 60 "Medium"
ATF works great as a oil but I have used 30wt, and 10-40
What you do is mix up a small bit of the yellow powder with the oil.
Mix it well.
I like to take a small block of wood and screw the bottom case to a wood table top or a small piece of plywood.
Then I liberally apply the Timesaver/oil mix to the mating surfaces of the cases.
I then put a bolt loosely into the end of one of the cases.
Then I move the top case back and forth several times.
Next, move the bolt to the other end of the cases and again move the top case back and forth several times.
I do this in the same pattern that I torque the case bolts.
Around and around we go.
Then check once in a while.. Add more Timesaver as required..
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
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