Clutch cable replacement

[Christopher]

Hi all, I'm wondering if I need a clutch cable. When I pull the clutch handle it has a lot of play up to about 1/2 pulled in, then I can feel it engage. This holds true for what I see on the case where the clutch is attached - at about halfway on the clutch handle I can see the arm on the case begin to move. Can you please suggest if I need a new cable and if so, what cable to purchase?

Sorry, I do not know all of the lingo for the parts yet.

Also, I have a video but am unsure about how to share/post. When I went to attachments and selected the video I was told invalid attachment. I could share via Google Drive but prefer not to.

My bike is a 2002 Kx500, with low mileage, per the one owner it has less than 200 hours on it. I plan to introduce myself and my bike in one of the other sections but wanted to go ahead and ask about the clutch cable first.

[Sandblaster]

For video's I usually post on Youtube and then post a link to it that way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWzBjlc_bHk

Your clutch cable could be stretched out but usually break at about that point.
I typically use a OEM when I have the choice.
In a pinch I use Motion Pro or Tusk.
One of the things I do for the cable is there is a curved metal sleeve on part of the cable.
I straighten them out a bit.
It helps with clutch pull
Your clutch plates may be worn as well giving you extra slop.
You don't have a lot of time on the bike but the plates can be heavily worn.
But, start with the cable first and go from there.

[Christopher]

Thanks Sandblaster!

Here is a video of what I'm experiencing.

https://youtu.be/gBB2B0tovgw

One other thing going on is - if I start the bike, put it in first with the clutch handle pulled all the way in, then Rev the engine the bike begins to move at higher rpm. Making me think the clutch isn't fully disengaged.

Christopher

[Sandblaster]

How is the adjustment on your clutch perch?

clutch perch.jpg (11.28 KiB) Viewed 7268 times

If it's all the way in as in this pic, try adjusting it out a bit.
Depending on the condition of the clutch plates, type of plates, and oil, the clutch can be a bit sticky until it is warmed up.
Do you know what trans oil you are running?

[Christopher]

There was no adjustment on the clutch perch. That solved the sloppiness in the cable. Just realized this afternoon that there was an adjustment underneath the rubber boot.

As far as the trans oil, it's running ATF right now. The previous owner stated that he was having some sort of issue with the kickstart "lever" returning to it's correct position. After changing the spring in the case with no change in behavior, he went out to some forums and found that people were suggesting ATF to remedy the problem. He said that since he began running ATF he hadn't had anymore problems with the kickstart "lever" returning to it's starting position.

After reading around on this forum some, I think I might switch to royal purple, but I'm not certain which viscosity to use. Based on the chart out of the repair manual it looks as if I could use 10-W30 or 10-W40 for my region - Central Texas - where ambient temperatures can be in the high 90s to low 100s for days.

Viscosity rating for KX500 Transoil.png (365.71 KiB) Viewed 7264 times

I have the bike torn down a bit right now, looking at the electronics, so I am unable to test the clutch stickiness.

[Sandblaster]

Yes, 10-40 is what you need.
I will probably change to Royal Purple in the near future just to try it out.
I have ran ATF when I used to use a different oil.
I would run it every now and again to help with cleaning out the gear box.
And it does a great job of that.
But I would not recommend running it all the time.
One of the problems you described closely resembles what happens when you use straight ATF... Sticky plates... When cold...